Clariden – Gemsfairen – Tüfelsjoch (“Devils Ridge) – Ideal Spring Touring

The Clariden mountains offer great spring and early summer (up to end of June) skiing. And the views are phantastic as well. Towards South there is the wide, wide Clariden Glacier. And when a Glacier plane lands there, it could be Greenland.

As soon as the Klausenpass opens (usually not before May), there are many tourers in this region starting from the pass, but it never get crowed. Most climbers do not go all the way to the Clariden top as the last 150 meters are quite exposed and there is come climbing (I to II) with a solid stainless steel chain preventing falls on this steep last portion of the route.

Crampons and ice axe recommended in this region!!

The normal ascent from Klausenpass to Clariden is – with the exception of the above mentioned last climb – quite easy and also save from avalanches. A tour in bad weather is not recommended, however, a number of skier took a wrong turn and fell down a cliff or the vertical face of the glacier (I heard this from former rescue guide in this region).

The map below provides an overview (red lines = ascents):

Clariden Map

An easier alternative to the Clariden is the Gemsfairen (not quite 3000m) where a small cable car (“Seilbahn”) to the Fiseten Ridge (http://www.urnerboden.ch/sites/seilbahn_d.php) make the remaing climb quite short. On sunny weekend days, there is usually quite cue at the base station (operations start at 07.00). If there is enough snow you can ski down to Urnerboden (first to the top station and then to the roght of the cable car).

From Gemsfairen, on can also ski down to the glacier to the South (there is a great, steep direct descent almost from the top, or a less demanding slope further North). From the glacier one then skins up to Clariden or to the Tüfelsjoch (“Devils Ridge”). After a steep climb (there is  a rope there, usually) the North facing slopes provide normally good powder. Head left (North East) towards Jägerbalm, at the Klausenpass road. In early summer, one then has to walk down to Urnerboden a few kilometers (or try hitch hiking).

A seldom visited peak is the Bocktschingel (between Devils Ridge and Clariden). Steep face with about a 40 degree angle.

The Clariden can be climbed as early as October and as late as June! Amazing.

Enjoy the pictures:

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